The doorbell rang and I froze for a second. Damn it. He was early. I began throwing things around the room in a frenzy. I had seconds to grab everything I needed: a bottle of water; a packet of crisps; some sunscreen; a handful of money; and my camera. I checked that my SD card was still inside and that I had a full battery: all good, thank god. With that, I bounded down the stairs and out of my guesthouse, where Linda was waiting for me. “Your guesthouse is so quiet,” he told me. “I know. I think I’m the only person staying there.” “Mbabane doesn’t have many tourists. Especially at this time of year.” I’d seen evidence of that on my day spent exploring the city. I was about to head out for a tour of Hlane Royal National Park, which is said to be the best place in the world to spot rhinos in the wild. The only problem was that the tour started at 8 a.m., which meant I’d set my alarm the night before ...